It may be hard to picture, but before  oil was discovered in the 1960s, the Gulf was not just uninhabited  desert. The region has a long history, and one of the best places to  learn about it is Al Ain.    
Just an hour east of Abu Dhabi, Al Ain  sits on the border with Oman.  And what is initially most striking about  it is the greenery. The roads are lined with palm trees and landscaped  gardens abound. Known as the Garden City of the Gulf, it is a welcome  contrast to the concrete jungle of construction and development so often  seen in cities in this part of the world.
The reason for Al Ain's oasis-like feel  is its natural water supply. The city's name means "spring" in Arabic  and it is famous for its "falaj system", underground water channels,  some of which date back to 1,000BC.  Some are still in use and the best  place to see them in action is in one of the six oases in the city. Walk  into one and you will see small farms that still harvest date palms  today. Winding through these oases are little lanes that you can  explore, taking you far from the big city bustle of Abu Dhabi and Dubai.
To add to the charm of Al Ain, height  limits on new buildings ensure that no skyscrapers blot out the skyline.  Instead of towering office blocks, the architectural features of Al Ain  are the city's forts. The largest and most well-known is Al Jahili,  which was built by Sheikh Zayed the First in 1898 as a defense tower and  a summer retreat. The royals would come to Al Ain to try and escape the  extreme humidity of the larger coastal cities.
Al Jahili fort fell into disrepair over  time but has been restored in recent years and now often hosts music  concerts in the cooler months. It also has a well laid-out visitors  centre and an exhibition devoted to Wilfred Thesiger, the British  explorer who made the Gulf his home in the 1940s and twice crossed the  Empty Quarter in southern Arabia.
Al Ain's archeological park, Al Hilli,  is home to the remnants of a Bronze Age settlement that dates back more  than to 4,500 years.  The park itself has pretty landscaped gardens and  you can even see an example of an Iron Age falaj too.
It is also worth popping in to Al Ain  National Museum for an overview of the region's history. Exhibits  include pottery dating back to the 3rd Century BC and coins from the  17th Century.
The city is proving popular with foreign  tourists these days but well healed locals have long been fans as well.  It is the birthplace of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the  founder of the United Arab Emirates and the city has the highest  proportion of Emiratis living there than any other city in the country.
The United Arab Emirates often  highlights its modernity and progress to the outside world, choosing to  forget that just a few generations ago, the country was inhabited by  Bedouin tribes living in the desert. But as Sheikh Zayed once said, a  country with no past "has neither a present or a future". Judging by Al  Ain, the UAE keeps all three alive.
Image Gallery
Source: BBC Travel
 
